Hyaluronic Acid 透明质酸 (玻尿酸)

  • Big molecule from repeated subunits (polymer)- different molecular weight versions exist. 来自重复亚基(聚合物)的大分子 – 存在不同的分子量版本
  • High-molecular-weight-HA (500k- 4M Dalton) can act as a brilliant surface hydrator, skin protectant and osmotic pump that helps water-soluble actives to penetrate better into deeper layers of the skin. 高分子量玻尿酸 (500k- 4M Dalton) 可以作为出色的表面保湿剂、皮肤保护剂和渗透泵,帮助水溶性活性物质更好地渗透到皮肤的更深层。
  • Low-molecular-weight-HA (< 500k Dalton) works mainly in the outer layer of the skin (epidermis) to hydrate the skin. 低分子量玻尿酸             (< 500k Dalton)主要作用于皮肤外层,为皮肤补水
  • Ultra-low-molecular-weight-HA (<50kDa) is a controversial ingredient and might work as a pro-inflammatory signal molecule. 超低分子量玻尿酸 (<50kDa) 是一种有争议的成分,可能作为促炎信号分子起作用.

Skin Benefits 皮肤益处

  • Hydrate the skin and replenish skin moisture: 1g of HA can bind up 1000 times its own weight in water. In other words, 1g of HA can bind up to 6L of water. This makes HA the best water-binding ingredient in the skincare world. High molecular weight HA stays on the skin to attract and retain moisture in our skin. It also push water soluble actives deeper into the skin by forming a highly hydrated reservoir on the skin surface. 滋润肌肤,补充肌肤水分:1 公克玻尿酸可在水中吸收 1000 倍于自身重量的水分。换言之,1  公克玻尿酸可以结合多达 6升 的水。这使得 玻尿酸 成为护肤界最好的保水成分。高分子量玻尿酸 留在皮肤上,以吸引和保持皮肤中的水分。它还通过在皮肤表面形成高度水合的水库,将水溶性活性物质推入皮肤更深处。
  • Maintain skin elasticity – Draws water and plump the skin. 保持皮肤弹性 – 吸水和丰盈皮肤
  • Reduce skin’s inflammatory response- One study showed that 0.2% Low Molecular Weight Hyaluronic Acid (~ 200kDa used in the study) increases the skin’s self-defense. Two other studies found that low molecular weight hyaluronic acid (also in 0.2%) is helpful for inflammation-related skin diseases such as rosacea and facial seborrheic dermatitis. 减少皮肤的炎症反应: 一项研究表明,0.2% 的低分子量玻尿酸(研究中使用约 200kDa)可增强皮肤的自我防御能力。另外两项研究发现,低分子量玻尿酸(同样为 0.2%)有助于治疗与炎症相关的皮肤病,例如酒渣鼻和面部脂溢性皮炎。
  • Regenerate the damaged skin barrier – Multiple studies showing that LMW-HA can help the skin to repair itself. 促进受损的皮肤屏障再生 – 多项研究表明,低分子量玻尿酸可以帮助皮肤自我修复。
  • Reduce the wrinkles– Plump up the water-loss related wrinkles.  It is found in-vivo (on real people) that the low molecular weight hyaluronic acid (50k Dalton) is really effective in plumping up wrinkles. 减少皱纹 – 丰盈与水分流失有关的皱纹。研究显示在体内(在真人身上)发现,低分子量透明质酸(50k Dalton)对抚平皱纹非常有效。

Click to check the common forms of hyaluronic acid in skincare products. 点击查看护肤品中常见的透明质酸形式。

  1. Hydrolysed Sodium Hyaluronate 水解透明质酸钠
  2. Hydrolysed Hyaluronic Acid 水解透明质酸
  3. Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate乙酰化透明质酸钠
  4. Sodium Hyaluronate 透明质酸钠
  5. Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer 透明质酸钠交联聚合物

References

  • Dermato-endocrinology, Jul 1, 2012, Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging
  • Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, January 2016, Rejuvenating Hydrator: Restoring Epidermal Hyaluronic Acid Homeostasis With Instant Benefits
  • The Journal of investigative dermatology., 1999 Nov;113(5):740-6., Absorption of hyaluronan applied to the surface of intact skin.

Showing all 3 results

Showing all 3 results